Soul Surfing..

Last week I saw this movie...

I loved the movie, I thought it had a great message and also the surfing in the movie was amazing. I've known surfing to exists and I've seen people attempt it but it didn't look anything like the amazing surfers in this movie. I have since been fascinated by the idea and the risk/reward people get from it. I looked up the word surfing on Wikipedia and it says this about surfing. 

Surfing is a surface water sport in which a person (the surfer) rides a board on the crest of a wave as it carries the surfer towards the shore.

That makes it sound so easy. But the amount of energy and patience it takes to surf in incredible. The amount of time and energy people put into surfing is amazing, to some its a way of life their world revolves around it. I had no idea that people take it so seriously and that its a way of life for some. I always just thought it was just a hobby but its not and that's what makes it so much more interesting. I love watching it and seeing the amazing things people can do. I now wish it was a lot more acknowledged as a sport than it is. 

“The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding…. if you’re out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don’t land on soft snow. It’s usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you’re tumbling underwater.”

-Frederick Lenz 

  Patience is a characteristic that surfers should learn particularly now that breaks are attracting more crowds than before. It emphasizes the importance of persistence to become a true surfer. Reaching that bend may require more effort than other sports because of the uncertainty of the open sea.

 That seems so true with other sports you have the tools to accomplish what your goal is but with surfing you are counting 100% of what mother nature gives you. To me that is more of a sport since you have to work harder at accomplishing your goals that way and the satisfaction in knowing you got what you needed without knowing it was going to be there in the the beginning.

One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things: your body, a surf-board, and a wave. - Naima Green

"I like to tell people who never surf that surfing is like taking a shower, except it lasts a life time. We are the lucky few who get to play in God's soup and we are better humans because of it." - Bill Hamilton 

The fact that not only have men dominated this sport so have women. That to me is awesome!!

(pic from wallpaper-network.com)

The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport. - Kelly Slater

(picture from wallpapers.net)

Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven. - John McCarthy

I would love to learn to surf but A. I don't know how to swim. B. I am not near the ocean enough to invest in the lifestyle. C. I probably don't have the patience to surf.

So..for now I'll just watch as other amazing people make it look so easy! 

Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life. - Matt Warshaw

(picture from Wikipedia)